Autor: Allen R. Balik, The Wine Exchange
We often hear the expression “Old Vine” and see it printed primarily on Zinfandel labels. But has anyone officially defined what that means? Not really. In the U.S., there is no legal definition for Old Vine on the label as there is for many other statements of quality and heritage. Estate Bottled vs. Estate Grown have specific definitions as does Reserve in much of Europe, but not in the U.S.
The Historic Vineyard Society (located in Sonoma) was founded in 2011 with the mission of “preserving California’s oldest vines” by setting their standard as vineyards planted before 1960. This references an initial 50-year model (which remains in place today) with all qualifying vineyards having at least one-third of their vines from the original planting. Similar criteria have also been informally adopted by other winegrowing areas (such as the Lodi AVA) and associations, but carry no official or binding recognition,
In Portugal, the concept of a field blend has been elevated from its historic character to the exceptional and unique category of Vinhas Velhas (Old Vines) that has achieved worldwide acclaim. Here, there must be at least 40 distinct varieties interplanted in the vineyard with the minimum vine age of 45 years. Although many have been shown closer to 80 years with some up to 100 or more. Renowned Douro winemaker Francisca van Zeller has characterized these as “Chaos Vineyards” while praising the potential majesty of the resulting wines.
For more than 35 years, Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) has championed America’s Heritage Grape—Zinfandel—and championed old vines. Through education, advocacy, and global outreach, ZAP has elevated Zinfandel’s cultural significance while honoring the growers and winemakers who safeguard these living legacies. Old vine vineyards are both historic monuments and vital resources for producing wines of authenticity, complexity, and place.
In this spirit, ZAP is honored to partner with The Old Vine Conference for their first California edition in-person gathering, October 31 – November 4, 2025. Hosted in regions where old vines have thrived for generations, this program will convene international thought leaders, wine professionals, and growers in a collaborative effort to ensure the preservation and future vitality of old vineyards.
A good friend in Napa, once broached the subject, “I’ve always wondered why a Zinfandel from old vines is treasured while vines of other varieties are torn out and replanted at far younger ages?” I found the question interesting and often wondered that myself, especially after visiting Bordeaux several years ago and observing Cabernet vines at 60 or more years of age. Or recently learning of the century-old Cabernet and Carmenère vines of Viña Lapostlolle’s flagship Clos Apalta estate in the Colchagua Valley of Chile.
Why is there only a 25- or 30-year lifespan for similar varieties here in Napa and other domestic wine growing areas? The actual reasons and speculations may be multi-faceted and opinionated, but let’s look at some background and thoughts.
Zinfandel, along with a few other workhorse varieties (e.g. Carignan and Petite Sirah), are often mentioned when speaking of older vines as they led the way in California from the mid-19th century, giving them an early start on becoming “today’s” old vines. It wasn’t until post-Prohibition in the mid-20th century that Cabernet, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, etc. came into popularity. So, time alone is on the side of the “survivors.”
In search of answers, I contacted a few winemaking friends, each with several decades of experience (more than 200 vintages in total) dealing with both old and younger vines spanning many growing areas and varieties. Mitch Cosentino (45 vintages) founder/winemaker of pureCru, is also a pioneer of Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel. Randle Johnson (51 vintages domestically plus 18 in the Southern Hemisphere), was the founding winemaker for Hess Collection and its Artezin (heirloom varieties) and Colomé (Argentina) brands, but now focused on his own Calafia wines.
Joel Peterson (53 vintages), considered by many the “King of Zin,” was co-founder/winemaker of Ravenswood and now his own Once and Future brand highlighting several heritage sites including his own Bedrock Vineyard in Sonoma. And Aaron Pott (35 vintages including the Southern Hemisphere and France) is founder/winemaker of Pott Wine and consulting winemaker to several prestigious Napa wineries.
The discussions became very detailed and diverse. We covered a broad range of topics including the economics of old vine vineyards, maintaining the character of the vine (and of course the resulting wines) along with lower yields, terroir, disease resistance, varietal differences, farming practices and several other salient topics.
Different varieties mature differently. Zinfandel, Carignan and to some degree Petite Sirah have shown an ability to age beyond the normal lifespan of Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay and others. When phylloxera hit California’s North Coast vineyards in the late 19th century, it first appeared in Sonoma and several years later, in Napa. Sonoma was the first to replant and today (along with Lodi) remains the heartland of old vine vineyards.
For economic and other reasons Zinfandel, given its strength, vigor, natural resistance to disease and ability to produce large crops in its youth, was the lead variety in the post-phylloxera replanting programs. These factors appear as the common denominator among those varieties known for their ability to withstand the stress of age. Growers at that time needed early and robust productivity from their vineyards to recover from phylloxera’s scourge and survive financially. However, as the vine ages beyond its prime years, berry size decreases and yields become progressively lower. But thankfully, the resulting wine’s concentration, complexity and aromatic/flavor profile grow dramatically.
Mitch characterized this difference using Zinfandel as an example, “With old vines, the flavors and aromatics become more intense and exotic leading to wines of greater character and layered complexity than those produced from younger vines.” Younger Zinfandel vines tend to produce more fruit-driven wines that may appeal to a broader consumer base, but can be more erratic from vintage to vintage due to changing weather conditions. Older vines have adapted over their many years in the ground with head training and deeper root systems. They are not as troubled by shifting climatic conditions and other external factors.
Randle expressed similar thoughts on the desirability of Old Vine Zinfandel, Carignan and a few other heirloom varieties pointing out, “They display an increased range of aromatic and flavor offshoots of what we often associate with the mainstream character of the variety and its terroir.” Smaller berries with a greater skin to juice ratio and the vine’s lower yields are most responsible for this sensory transition and what Old Vine Zinfandel lovers most appreciate.
Joel agreed with the explanation about increased dimension of wines from older vines as expressed by the others and added an additional thought on the nature of the vine itself. “Old vines are not just about longevity but are an indication of vines totally in sync with their definitive terroir. They intuitively know their site and are more consistently expressive in the flavor of place.” He went on to point out, “Since today’s soils are not the same as they were 50, 60 or more years ago, old vines had to accommodate to the changes brought on by ‘modern farming’ techniques of the last several decades. However, this is now about to change as soil health is on the upswing with Regenerative Organic practices taking hold.”
Aaron expressed similar thoughts in a somewhat different way. “What makes old vines great is that they are balanced! The amount of fruit they produce is ideal for their ability to properly ripen in varying conditions by providing a natural yield ‘regulation’ to produce concentrated excellent crops.” However, Aaron also commented on another aspect: “Since we now can better control yields with more work in the vineyard, concentration can also be achieved in younger vines by keeping them in balance, thus somewhat reducing the difference between young and old.”
Zinfandel, along with a few other varieties, has been able to stand the test of time by being among the first vines planted after the late 19th century’s bout with phylloxera and its propensity for higher yields. During Prohibition some vineyards remained in production for sacramental wines and for fruit shipped cross-country (Zinfandel is known for its ability to travel well) for home winemaking as was allowed under the law.
Zinfandel’s second battle for survival was won during the late 1970s and 1980s when red varieties were pulled as white wines led the market. Many older vineyards were spared when Sutter Home established itself as the trailblazer for White Zinfandel and others followed suit. Zinfandel has proven itself as the ultimate survivor.
While Cabernet and certain other familiar varieties continue to reach an older age in Bordeaux and elsewhere in Europe, they (with a few exceptions) do not do as well here. Over the years, European vintners and growers have utilized more historic farming regimens and expressed far more tolerance for lower yields and common viral diseases that come with age. Therefore, the vine aging potential of many varieties is not generally associated with older age in the New World as is seen in the Old World.
Inez Salpico is Decanter Magazine’s Regional Editor for Portugal and Spain whose combined winemaking heritage is heavily related to old vine viticulture. In her March 6, 2025 “The identity of old vines – can time be tasted?” column she summarized thoughts shared at this year’s Barcelona Wine Week. “The common thread and foremost conclusion beyond taste…is that attention paid to older vines is fundamentally about social, economic and cultural responsibility.”
Among others, Salpico quoted Winemaker Raul Pérez: “[Once wines were] produced for enjoyment. Now they are made to be tasted and scored. We’re losing our identity. The value of old vines is the preservation of a sense of place and inherent drinkability. Old vines allow us to harvest earlier with enough maturity…so you actually have wines with natural freshness and lower alcohol.”
Whether old vines produce better wines remains unsettled with diverse opinions on either side. Yet, there is little argument that farming older vines necessitates extreme financial commitment and viticultural expertise deserving of our respect and appreciation to the winegrowers who follow this challenging path.
Share your experiences with other readers by commenting on this article with an email to me at allenbalik@savorlifethroughwine.com.
Allen Balik, a Napa resident, has been a wine collector, consultant, author, charity auction fundraiser, and enthusiast for more than 40 years.
Photo courtesy of Barbara Balik
